Walking tour of old Morrisburg

The Rev. Donald C. Smith Memorial Walking Tour of Old Morrisburg

Welcome to the village of Morrisburg, the only Canadian community on the St. Lawrence River between Cardinal and Cornwall not completely relocated by the construction of the Seaway in the late 1950’s. The entire original main street and business district was leveled and a new shopping centre, one of the first in Canada, was opened in 1957. The former east end of the village which included the downtown was transformed into a waterfront park, but many of the village’s original homes and the churches survived in their original settings and a few of these are the subject of this walking tour.

This picturesque village along the shores of the St. Lawrence River started in its early history as West Williamsburg, Canada West. It received its first post office in 1832 with Mr. Stearns serving as the first post master. In 1844-47, the construction of the Williamsburg canals along the front of Dundas County set into place all the necessary elements to encourage the development of a town. As a result, a town did begin to literally grow out of farmers fields which stretched back from the newly completed canal. Benjamin Chaffey was the first to see the advantages of the canal construction and erected a gris mill along what was to become Morrisburg’s waterfront. The little village continued to grow over the boom years of the 1850’s adding a carding mill erected by Austin Doran, a fanning mill factory established by McKenzie and two wharfs owned by Captain Farlinger and I.N. Rose respectively.

In 1851 the town had adopted the name of “Morrisburgh”. This name was chosen to honour Sir James Morris, who was instrumental in promoting and financing the construction of Williamsburg Canals on the St. Lawrence River. Sir James was also the first Post Master General of Canada. The expansion of the village was helped along by the arrival of the Grand Trunk Rail Road in 1855. Morrisburg was incorporated as a village in 1860. The growth was steady and persistent and many far thinking people of the day openly boasted that at the rate the town was growing it would be the capital of Dundas County!

The 1870’s brought exceptional growth and many of the large fine homes that can be seen today throughout the village were built during this time. It was at this time that Morrisburg was designated the “Village of Pretty and Stately Homes” (J. Smyth Carter “The Story of Dundas”, 1904). The main street saw the addition of the Farlinger Block, the Meikle Block, the Music Hall and many other fine buildings. The town developed an excellent merchant and market atmosphere which attracted two banks, The Molson’s Bank (1872) and the Bank of Ottawa. So renowned were the markets of Morrisburg that farmers from as far away as Finch brought their wagons of grain and butter to be auctioned to the highest bidder.

The arrival of the 20th century saw the installation of the hydro electric plant in 1901 at a cost of $35,000. The depression years were cushioned by the Dr. Locke phenomenon in Williamsburg. During this period, Morrisburg played host to thousands of visitors and patients of Dr. Locke. This led to the establishment of several tourist homes such as “The Falcon”, “The Ship’s Mate”, “The George Frederick”, “The Cardinal” and the “Rosedale” just to name a few. These tourist homes continued to operate up until the time of the Seaway Project, with the exception of the Rosedale all of these buildings are still standing today.

The tour begins at the dock at the foot of Ottawa Street (Highway/County Rd. #31)

Tour Map

1. THE DOCK AREA The dock area marks the western boundary of the former commercial district. The present Lakeshore Drive (the original Highway #2) extended eastward in a straight line past the dock and formed the old main street. By looking east down what used to be the centre of the old village, it is now possible to see how drastically the shoreline was altered. To the west of the dock, the old canal, the riverside road called Canal Street, and a ribbon of land half a block deep all lie beneath the Seaway’s Lake St. Lawrence. All the older buildings on Lakeshore Drive have, by virtue of the water coming to them, become shoreline properties. Walk west along Lakeshore Drive.

2. 12 LAKESHORE DRIVE (north side)

The Falcon. This Queen Anne Revival style house is one of several built in the area. These tend to be large, commodious houses of two or more stories, exhibiting the characteristic irregular massing and steep hip roofs so typical of the style. This is the only example in the village with an offset tower. It retains its classic lines even though the large front porch has been removed and the original wood cladding has been covered with modern siding.

3. 14 LAKESHORE DRIVE (north side)

This large home was built around 1850 by George Gibson. It displays the Gothic Revival elements of a steeply pitched slate roof and gables, and decorative trim. The narrow window bays, windows and doors all emphasize the vertical. Note also the Gothic Revival gable facing the street, and the Georgian portico at the front entrance.

4. 17 LAKESHORE DRIVE (south side)

This fine Ontario Vernacular house is a hybrid, typical of its period. It was built in 1858 by Mr. Breckenridge, a druggist in the village. The solarium on the west side and the front porch with its enclosed glazed vestibule are still notable features. Over the years it has been a Tourist Home (The George Frederick) and a group home, but is now, once more, a private residence.

5. LAKESHORE DRIVE UNITED CHURCH

Built in 1880 by the Methodist Church of Canada, it became a United Church at the time of Church Union in 1925. It is Gothic in design, built of brick with cut stone dressings. The original east spire was destroyed by lightning in 1964.

6. 22 LAKESHORE DRIVE (north side)

This fine example of Second Empire architecture was built in 1879 by Mr. William Broder, village merchant. Note the conspicuous mansard roof line, rounded dormers, and heavy brackets at the eaves. The deep Classical window and door mouldings encasing large panes of glass all emphasize the vertical. The slate roof and original iron cresting crown this 22 room brick mansion. This magnificent building was also a tourist home “The Ship’s Mate”.

7. 31 LAKESHORE DRIVE (south side)

The projecting central tower and the concave mansard roof identify this fine old Victorian home as Second Empire in style. The early Georgian dormers in both the tower and the roof are all exuberant expressions of this style, providing an accent to be both seen and enjoyed. The conservatory at the western end used to be a solarium. It features 18 stained glass windows, each with a different colour scheme. It was built by Dr. Thomas Chamberlain in 1874. He used the top floor as a local hospital. For a brief time it served as a Tourist Home, The Cardinal, but in 1939, Dr. Gorrell bought it and he practiced dental surgery here for many years.

8. 33 LAKESHORE DRIVE (south side)
Built in the early 1880s, this is another example of Queen Anne style, with characteristic steep hip roof and angular bays. The porches here retain their characteristic spindle-work. Note particularly the front gable which is clad with fish scale shingles arranged in a variety of patterns. It is separated by a series of horizontal cross-pieces which accent the balcony that is built into the gable.

9. 35 LAKESHORE DRIVE (south side)

The concave slope to the slate mansard roof, the typical mansard dormers, the one-storey bay window, and the ornately bracketed eaves mark this house, built in 1878, as yet another eclectic Second Empire house. Note the enclosed glazed vestibule built as a concession to the climate. Turn North and walk up High St.

10. 14 HIGH STREET (west side)

This basically Ontario Vernacular house has, at the juncture of the main portion and the wing, a tower with a square, spire-like patterned slate roof containing very plain shed dormers. At the base of the tower there is a set of Italianate doors. The style of the south entrance is Greek Revival. A stone in the tower proclaims it was built in 1876. In spite of extensive reworking it still remains much of its original charm.

11. 18 HIGH STREET (west side)

Built as a Sunday School hall for St. James Anglican church in 1905, this building was converted into a private home in the late70s.

12. 36 FIRST STREET and 24 HIGH STREET (west side)

Both of these semidetached houses are noteworthy because they are so large. Number 36, now painted white with blue trim displays the characteristic mansard roof line, dormers, and window bays of the Second Empire style. The blue trim helps highlight the heavy roof brackets, and accents the patterned slate roof. Number 24, with its symmetrical organization, steep pitch roof gables, polychrome brickwork, and its emphasis of the vertical (as evidenced in the tall twin window bays), is Gothic Revival in style. Its brickwork is particularly remarkable for its exuberance.

13. ST. JAMES ANGLICAN CHURCH

The present Gothic style church was built in 1893, and only the bell tower remains of the previous building which was built in 1857. Both roof and bell tower retain their slate coverings. The Queen Anne rectory, just north of the church, was built in 1875.

14. 49 HIGH STREET (east side)

This fine Gothic Revival house, built around 1880, is reminiscent of the ubiquitous Ontario Gothic, center-gabled farmhouse possessed of a “tail” with its own central gable and second porch. The steep pitched, patterned slate, iron crested roof; the vertical emphasis provided by the placement of the late Georgian style dormers in line with the first and second story windows; the two window bays placed beneath the two main gables; and the well preserved woodwork of the verge boards, decorative caps on the window bays, the well proportioned porches and vestibules are all worthy of note.

15. 51 HIGH STREET (east side)

Built in 1876, this is the standard Ontario Gothic style referred to in association with #49 High Street. Note the “new” peroid style shutters (sadly the original shutters had to be replaced three years ago) and the well-preserved glazed vestibule. 51 High Street also possesses some of the finest original decorative plaster work (dinning room, parlour and hallway) to be found in the village. Turn east on Third Street and walk a block to St. Lawrence Street, then turn right and walk south.

16. 29 ST. LAWRENCE STREET (east side)

This Second Empire house was built by the presbytery at Morrisburg and as adjacent to the church which used to stand to the south. The central tower directly above the front door and the second storey window provides the vertical emphasis so much a part of the Second Empire style. The porch is a fine representation of a mansard veranda, with well-turned spindles and balusters, and delicate brackets.

17. ST. PAUL’S LUTHERAN CHURCH (east side)

St. Paul’s Lutheran church was built in 1875. Gothic Revival in design, it uses polychrome brickwork to highlight and outline its façade. The tower is capped by a tall, wooden belfry with a shallow, Italianate roof.

18. 16 FIRST STREET (east side)

The large Gothic Revival house on the corner was built in the 1870s. Note the wide, bold bargeboards, and the central pinnacle suspended beneath the peak, ending in a knob-like pendant above the third floor window. Note also the intricate cut out patterns adorning the gable ends.

19. 19 ST. LAWRENCE STREET (east side)

This classic Italianate house with its wrought iron fence was built in 1876 by Dr Sherman. The corner tower with its tall, foursided lantern containing four pairs of Italianate round-headed windows is still an area landmark. Note also the classic Italianate porch and front door. Walk east along First Street. With one very obvious exception, this walk down to Ottawa Street is lined by buildings, which date back to before the turn of the twentieth century.

20. 14 FIRST STREET (north side)
This simple Ontario Gothic house, which echoes Italianate influences, was built around 1860 by Richard Whitney. His son, Sir James Pliney Whitney, was Premier of Ontario, and was responsible for the creation of Ontario’s Coat of Arms.

21. KNOX PRESBYTERIAN CHURCH AND MANSE (north side)

Knox Presbyterian Church is Gothic in style. It was built in 1879 and is of red brick with cut stone dressings. The roof and the broach spire are both covered with slate. The Gothic Revival house (#12) just west of the church was built in 1870, and was purchased as a manse in 1906.

22. 9-11 FIRST STREET (south side)

This semi-detached unit was built in 1881 and is a more disciplined version of the Gothic Revival style already seen at 24 High Street. The six slender posts supporting the porch contribute to the vertical feel of the houses. Both the brackets and balustrades of the porch retain the decorative flair associated with this style. The low porch platform is also typical. The twin entrances, each with two tall, narrow doors is also a characteristic of this type of house. Of particular note here are the two sets of serene doors which, again, contribute to the vertical feeling of the houses.

23. 6 FIRST STREET (north side)

In passing, note the embossed metal sheets covering the low-pitched roof of this small house built in the early 1850’s.

24. 2 FIRST STREET (north side)

Piety Cottage. A fine example of Ontario Gothic, this well maintained clapboard house, built in 1876, has a typical spacious front porch supported on seven well-turned columns. The spindles along the porch roof and the balusters that support the railing add contrast to the main horizontal emphasis of the clapboard siding. Note also the iron cresting on the east entrance bay. This was the childhood home of Dr. Marion Hilliard. Turn left (north) at the corner on to Ottawa St. and go north one block.

25. 18 OTTAWA STREET (west side)

This small brick house, with its low-pitched roof is basically Gothic Revival in style, employing polychrome brickwork and arcade-like openings for windows and doors to emphasize the vertical. Built in 1864, it is very reminiscent of the design used in small registry offices in the 19th century.

26. Morrisburg Collegiate Institute Morrisburg’s first High School (Grammar School)

The School was established in 1864. It operated on the top floor of the public school. A separate building was erected in 1886 on the corner of Second and McKenzie streets. The high school was elevated to the rank of “Collegiate Institute” in 1890. The 1886 building and all school records were destroyed by fire in 1925. The present building was constructed between 1925 and 1926. It served the community for 41 years, closing in 1967. In 1981, the building became a community and health care center.

This concludes the walking tour but certainly does not exhaust the number of houses that have historical architectural interest in our village. To return to the dock area walk south towards the river or you can be adventurous and explore on your own!